My Car Eats Batteries!!

Question:

2001 Chevy Impala mileage: 55,000. Hi...my girlfriend's old Impala eats batteries! We had one burst last month, thought it frozen. Got a replacement, now this one is belching sulfurous gasses and is warm to the touch after the car has run for a little while. Not cold enough to freeze - possible charging system problem? Sometimes the interior lights/radio lights go dim, then bright again, also. The alternator is putting out about 14.7 volts, the battery is charged to about 13.5 volts, seems high. I thought maybe the voltage regulator could be bad, but don't know where it is on that year vehicle! Otherwise a great low-mileage nana car...any advice you guys could give on where to start looking for the problem would be appreciated!

Answer:

Check the ground wires to make sure they are in place and making good contact, especially the battery cable ground connection to the motor. If this checks out okay, you probably have a faulty alternator. BTW you will need to replace the battery again also. It cant take over charging.

Starting - Accelerating problems

Question:

'99 Acura Integra GSR 97,000miles. The problem started with what i thought was just bad spark plugs. The car would occasionally misfire when i gave it gas. I changed the spark plugs and the misfiring increased and the car became almost impossible to start. I pulled the plugs and checked the gaps again and the plugs where dark and saturated with fuel. I also noticed while trying to start it again several minutes later that you can smell strong gas almost immediately after trying to start it. it seems to idle fine when it does start, but as soon as you tap the gas it either stalls are comes close to it. It has good spark also.

Answer:

Just a thought, but plugs wires come to mind. Especially when you said it ran worse after the new plugs were put in. Tugging and pulling on those wires breaks down the composite conductivity of the wires. The hesitation is also a symptom.

1997 Ford Taurus Starter problems

Question:

We replace the starter but when we went to put the positive cable back on the battery the starter started to crank without the engine being turned on. Did we put the starter on wrong?

Answer:

The problem is that on the back of the starter there is a small wire that goes to the "s" terminal and The positive cable. The positive cable is touching the small wire , so the Starter is getting power on the "s" terminal wire and thinks you want the starter to crank. Separate the two wires from touching and all should be fine once more.

1996 Honda Accord

Question:

My A/C is not cooling off. I replaced the compressor and added freon and still won't work. The person who put on the compressor did not replace the expansion valve. Should it be replaced?

Answer:

You should replace the reciever drier and the orifice tube, if it has one, the pull it into vacuum.

I have a Problem with my Power Windows!

Question:

I''m having a problem with my power windows. They stopped working and after pushing the buttons a number of times they started working again. A week or so later they stopped working and now I still can''t get them to work. I need to know if the problem could be in the power distribution box with the fuse. My power seat still works but didn''t know if they are tied in together. Or is it in the switch controls on my arm rest... Alreday tried fuses. It is 2000 Ford Explorer.

Answer:

If all the windows are having an issue of not going up, then it is most likely the control module(drivers door switch unit) or the window motor breaker.
If it is just happening with one window ( most likely the drivers window as you use it more often) the the window motor needs to be replaced.

Low Coolant Light On

Question:

I have a 1999 Ford Taurus 3.0. I Had the coolant system flushed out and about a month after the water pump went out. I replaced the water pump and filled the system per owners manual. Since, the 'LOW COOLANT' light remains on. The temperature gauge is not showing it is running hot. What can I do?

Answer:

The low coolant sensor is in the plastic recovery tank, new revised Ford fill procedure is fill cold to the hot line...this may help, if not the sensor will need to be swapped out!

1992 Ford F150 Won't crank-Fuel related

Question:
I have a 1992 Ford F150 that I drive daily to work. Drove home after work a few days ago (it ran great on the way home), parked it, went out the next day to go to work---wouldn't start. Battery tests good, put on new plugs(6), new coil, new relay, new battery cable ends, new fuel filter---nothing. Checked fuses, all are testing good. Looked for and "in-line" fuse that is supposed to go to the fuel tanks (dual tanks on this truck), and I cannot find it. Where is it? Also, what do you think the problem might be? I can't seem to hear the fuel pump pumping during the times I have tried to get it cranked.

Answer:

Have you tried both tanks? The engine really only needs good compression, spark at the right time and adequate fuel pressure. Since you drove it the day before, it sounds like you have good compression. On top of the fuel rail, there's what looks like a little schrader valve which is the fuel pressure port. Pressure should be in the high 30's to low 40's psi with the key on but engine off. Then check to see if you're getting good spark while cranking the truck.

Electrical Problem

Question:

I have a 1995 Buick Regal, Automatic with 158,960 miles on it. The problem that I have is every time I press the brake pedal my brake lights do not come on. I have checked the bulbs and fuses and they are good. What could it be?

Answer:

Find the brake switch on the brake pedal, follow it till you see the switch disconnect. Disconnect it and put a jumper on the 2 terminals and see if it comes on. If it does light up, then you will just need to replace the brake light switch. If it does not come on, then you will need to trace your wiring and repair as needed. A helpful Resource

Starting Trouble

Question:

2003 GMC Suburban, mileage: 95,000. When I turn the key all dash messages come up as normal and I can hear the starter solenoid switch, yet the starter and engine will not turn over. It appeared that I had full electrical power (bright lights etc.). I jumped it, charged it still wouldn't start. I took the battery in; they tested the battery and determined that it was bad. I replaced with new battery. I still have the same problems and symptoms. Checked fuses, all look good. A couple weeks ago I turned key and this happened, then tried a couple more times and it fired up strong. Since then it has started repeatedly without problems, now symptom has returned. What are the most likely problems?

Answer:

More than likely, the starter is shorted and needs replacing.

Battery

Question:

2001 Chevy Impala mileage: 55,000. Hi...my girlfriend's old Impala eats batteries! We had one burst last month, thought it frozen. Got a replacement, now this one is belching sulfurous gasses and is warm to the touch after the car has run for a little while. Not cold enough to freeze - possible charging system problem? Sometimes the interior lights/radio lights go dim, then bright again, also. The alternator is putting out about 14.7 volts, the battery is charged to about 13.5 volts, seems high. I thought maybe the voltage regulator could be bad, but don't know where it is on that year vehicle! Otherwise a great low-mileage nana car...any advice you guys could give on where to start looking for the problem would be appreciated!

Answer:

Check the ground wires to make sure they are in place and making good contact, especially the battery cable ground connection to the motor. If this checks out okay, you probably have a faulty alternator. BTW you will need to replace the battery again also. It cant take over charging.

Chrysler Concorde - Won't Start

Question:

1999 Chrysler Concorde, mileage: 80,000. Won't start in cold weather. During the summer it starts right up but as the temperature falls the harder it is to start. It did the same thing last winter too. I tried disconnecting the MAP sensor but it didn't make any difference. When I start the car it cranks and tries to fire up then cranks again. Some times it takes 4 or 5 times of trying and some times more, but if it is 50 degrees or warmer outside it fires right up. Also, when it does finally start and I drive a ways, it will start again without a problem. It only does this when it sits for awhile in cold temperatures I hope this gives you enough info.

Answer:

First scan the PCM for trouble codes using a hand held engine scanner, then repair codes by replacing failed sensor as needed. If no codes are present check fuel pump pressure at the time of failure, replace as needed. More than likely you just need to replace your IAC valve as it is sticking.

How To Repair/Check Fuses

There are two ways to check fuses. The first is the good old fashion way of removing each fuse and visually inspecting each fuse. It's time consuming but effective. And the other way that is much faster and easier, but you need a "test light" before you can begin. Turn the key to the "on" position (do not start), ground your test light lead to a good ground source, like a metal brace under the dash, seat mount bolt or under hood brace. Then lightly touch the service port at the top of the fuse on both sides. If the test light illuminates on both sides of the fuse, the fuse is ok and working properly. If the fuse lights the test light on one side it is blown and needs to be replaced.

Vegetable Fuel

So can the everyday diesel engines of today run on vegetable oil.... The answer is yes! So why don't we? The first deterrent is that the US government has a strict law against it. Why? Well in the US the government taxes the fuel used in cars and does not tax food, so it would be bad for business. There is a big and healthy fine if you are caught trying to do so. This is why all the myth busters and testers out there perform there tests with used vegetable oil or fryer grease they obtain legally from a restaurant.

The fuel mileage is the same for both fuels and no modification needs to be done to the engine for it to run on the vegetable oil. This engine was designed from day one by Rudolf Diesel to run on vegetable oil. More..